Peru 2012
Well, the intrepid explorer has returned. I can honestly say it was the most amazing experience of my life.
For me, I signed up for this adventure for three reasons. Firstly, it is somewhere I have always wanted to visit particularly Machu Picchu, now one of the 7 wonders of the World. Secondly, for my own personal achievement as I have a complete fear of heights and drops of the side of mountains (and there are plenty of those on the Inca trails). And, lastly, it was somewhere my Father had always wanted to explore and never made it before his death.
The flight was pretty awful. A short hop to Amsterdam and then the long haul to Lima of 12 hours in Donkey Class. We stayed overnight in a most unsavoury area of Lima, and then took the early morning flight to Cusco. In Cusco we stayed two nights in a very comfortable hostel in the city centre, where we used the time to acclimatise to the altitude of 3300metres. Here we met our guide Edwin, who was to look after us for the next two weeks. That afternoon we did some site seeing - Qoricancha (Inca's Temple of the Sun), a colonial cathedral and museum. Then we took a minibus out to Cusco outskirts to the Inca fortress at Sacsayhuaman. Coca tea was downed in abundance to stave off the problems of altitude sickness, although a couple of people were already suffering a little.
For me, I signed up for this adventure for three reasons. Firstly, it is somewhere I have always wanted to visit particularly Machu Picchu, now one of the 7 wonders of the World. Secondly, for my own personal achievement as I have a complete fear of heights and drops of the side of mountains (and there are plenty of those on the Inca trails). And, lastly, it was somewhere my Father had always wanted to explore and never made it before his death.
The flight was pretty awful. A short hop to Amsterdam and then the long haul to Lima of 12 hours in Donkey Class. We stayed overnight in a most unsavoury area of Lima, and then took the early morning flight to Cusco. In Cusco we stayed two nights in a very comfortable hostel in the city centre, where we used the time to acclimatise to the altitude of 3300metres. Here we met our guide Edwin, who was to look after us for the next two weeks. That afternoon we did some site seeing - Qoricancha (Inca's Temple of the Sun), a colonial cathedral and museum. Then we took a minibus out to Cusco outskirts to the Inca fortress at Sacsayhuaman. Coca tea was downed in abundance to stave off the problems of altitude sickness, although a couple of people were already suffering a little.
The intricate designs of stone slabs to withstand earthquakes. Some are nine sided!
The following day we took the minibus in the cold wet morning to the lowlands of the Andes where we were to meet our ponies that were to look after us for the next 7 days of trekking. The ponies were very small between 11.2hh and 14.3hh. They all wore head-collars with rope bitless bridles over the top tied up with nylon string! The saddles were Magellan US cavalry saddles with both a girth and cinch. They were very uncomfortable on the seatbones. Once partnered with our ponies off we set through a building site and out to the countryside. This was supposed to be a gentle affair to get used to our mounts. The first obstacle was a steep downwards using a switchback affair down to a river. My pony took off which was very disconcerting, until he stopped in the river where he bumped into the horses in front. Apparently it was because I held him back, which I did because they said stay 3 metres apart. Good lesson learned - they have no brakes, gears or steering.
We then had a fairly good ride and then stopped for a hot soup lunch in a tent all laid out for us by the wranglers. The horses are set free during our break, fully tacked up and still with saddlebags on containing our personal items. The afternoon saw some incredibly steep climbs and descents. Upwards, we had to stand in the stirrups and hold on tight to the mane to stay on the horse, and then put the saddles back into position again at the top. Downwards, we had to lean as far back as possible holding the back of the saddle in order to stay on, while the horses slid down on their bottoms. Some people let their horses go on their own while they slid down on their own bottoms, but I thought it safer to stay on board. We then experienced very narrow tracks with sheer drops off the side. That night was sleepless for me. My mind going over and over all the scary bits of the ride. Could I cope? I very nearly decided to not carry on, but after a good talking to from myself, I continued..
This is a very brief resume of our trip.
We then had a fairly good ride and then stopped for a hot soup lunch in a tent all laid out for us by the wranglers. The horses are set free during our break, fully tacked up and still with saddlebags on containing our personal items. The afternoon saw some incredibly steep climbs and descents. Upwards, we had to stand in the stirrups and hold on tight to the mane to stay on the horse, and then put the saddles back into position again at the top. Downwards, we had to lean as far back as possible holding the back of the saddle in order to stay on, while the horses slid down on their bottoms. Some people let their horses go on their own while they slid down on their own bottoms, but I thought it safer to stay on board. We then experienced very narrow tracks with sheer drops off the side. That night was sleepless for me. My mind going over and over all the scary bits of the ride. Could I cope? I very nearly decided to not carry on, but after a good talking to from myself, I continued..
This is a very brief resume of our trip.
My first pony on the Inca trails
Day 1 - We meet the horses high up above Cusco near where we stopped for lunch the previous day. It took them 2hours to get there having started at 7am, being herded along by the wranglers all fully tacked up. After mounting up in thick drizzly fog, we set off following a trail over the Qoriqocha Pass and then through the meadows at Chitipampa where herds of alpaca and llama roam. The weather improved and came sunny thankfully. We stopped for a fabulous lunch, again all laid out for us, overlooking the views over the Urubamba Corbillera at 4200mtrs. Lunch was so large no-body could manage it, but it meant Zorro (our guide's dog) was very well fed, which was just as well as he came with us the whole 7 days. The afternoon followed trails descending through Andean villages and on to Barro Lodge in Chinchero at 3700mtrs. Here the horses were untacked and left overnight in a coral with fodder and grain which had been carried by mule for them. Also carried by mule were our bags, camping equipment and the human food supplies. We stayed overnight in Barro Lodge which was fantastic with beautiful views of the mountains, but very cold.
Pack ponies bringing our camping equipment and food.
Day 2 - Having tacked up, we then left the horses while we continued on foot to the Inca complex at Chincheros. Very impressive agricultural terraces are seen here as well as the Inca's precision stone architecture and the added Spanish influence over it. After mounting we continue through the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Our trail takes us to the salt pans at Maras, where we had time to explore on foot and see the workings producing very large quantities of salt. On we go through beautiful fields and meadows and on to Urubamba where we stay overnight at Amaru Valle Lodge. Urubamba is set centrally in the Sacred Valley and is handy for the important and imposing fortresses of Pisac and Ollantaytambo at either end of the valley.
Swing bridge over a large river.
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My second pony
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Day 3 - A rest day from and for the horses, and a days site seeing. This is to again acclimatise to the next high part of the trek while camping. We first visit Pisac, a market town oozing Inca heritage. Mostly the lifestyle here is as it was before the Spanish invaded. Bright traditional costumes and family units are seen throughout the town which lies in the shadow of the Inca fortress perched on the mountainside overlooking the Sacred Valley. Walking through the terraces and buildings as we climb along steep narrow pathways within the fortress was fascinating, but started to make me feel dizzy as vertigo started to rear its ugly head. But, I coped with a little encouragement from the others. We then descended back to the town and wandered through the maze of market stalls where shopping for alpaca goods is a must. After a lovely lunch in hot sun, we visited Moray. This is a huge archaeological site, where Incas excavated a circular hole with large terraces and steep slopes down to a ceremonial stage at the bottom. Many theories exist as to why.
Typical plants
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Local Taxi
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Day 4 - After mounting we start to climb out of the valley. The flora changes, the air gets thinner and colder. We pass through remote villages with few inhabitants as we get closer to the snowpeaks. Our trail takes us over Huacawasi Pass at 4700mtrs with breathtaking views over the Cordillera Urubamba snowy mountain range. We then start to descend to Laguna Pata Qocha at 4000mtrs where we do our first nights camping. Horses are untacked and turned loose. Our tents are already up for us and a bowl of hot water arrives for all to wash in. We share, 2 people per tent (cosy). Then straight into the communal tent for warming vodka and martinis awaiting our dinner. It's dark by 6pm, so after dinner it's off to bed fully clothed as it's so cold. By morning most items including people had slid to one end of the tent!
The amazing heights the ponies climbed.
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Well earned rest having climbed to 4700 metres.
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Day 5 - Up at 6am awakened with a bowl of hot water and cup of coffee in our tents. Only -3 last night, but my flannel is stiff like a frizby. We quickly pack, have breakfast of eggs while the wranglers load up the mules and depart ahead of us. Then off we go, through the Huacawasi Valley passing many villages famous for their weavings. We then pass through the Cunkani Valley and then onto the hot springs at Lares. Here our campsite had been set up much to the annoyance of local holiday makers. Our dinner was cooked while we lazed in the natural thermal spring waters of various temperatures. A tough day!
After dinner we walked into the village of Lares and had an insight as to village life as it's probably been for 500years. It was warm that night so had a good sleep.
After dinner we walked into the village of Lares and had an insight as to village life as it's probably been for 500years. It was warm that night so had a good sleep.
The famous Llamas and Alpacas of Peru
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Views of the snow peaks we were heading towards to camp on our last night.
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Local children find our camp site
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Day 6 - I knew this was going to be the hardest day as we were to climb over 5000mtrs and camp under the snow-peaks. We follow an ancient Inca Trail that connected the Andean highlands to the lowland jungles. During the morning the terrain got increasingly difficult with sheer drops to the side, and I got into a panic attack that I could not control but also could not do anything about as it was too steep to get off the pony. My pony ignored me and carried on regardless which is just as well as I was paralysed in my arms, legs and face! This lasted for 3 and a half hours until we stopped on a flat piece of ground for a break. I was exhausted. I had to tell the others not to be nice to me else I would not remount. Off we set again with Edwin saying that was the worst of it. What a lie. Half an hour later he stopped and explained we were going on a very narrow ledge around the side of the mountain and under no circumstances allow your horse to stop as the ones behind would bunch and someone would get pushed off the side!! At this point they did not trust me so I was led by a wrangler.
Just as well as the horse infront of me decided he didn't fancy it at all and stopped dead refusing to move. Luckily my leader could just about reach her and assist before an accident happened. After that section they set me free again, saying it's all easy from here. All lies again. But, I actually started to get braver, and some of the others said they thought it was worse in the afternoon and even they were frightened. One part of the trail went around a sharp bend at the edge of the mountain and the horses were on a rock ledge only 2feet deep with nothing under them. What a photograph that would have made, but no-one was brave enough to take hands off reins to take it. We passed through Rosa Pata and onto a Qochayoq village. After climbing to 5000mtrs we then descended to 4500mtrs to our campsite. After a great dinner, we went to bed early. It was freezing. I went to bed with thermals, 3 t-shirts, jumper, cardigan, waistcoat, fleece coat, duckdown coat, sleeping bag and blanket on top. Wool socks with gloves over the top. Wool hat, snood, scarf and gloves and I was still cold. -10 that night, what an experience.
Day 7 - Our final day. Should be an easier ride as progressively descending to Patacancha after the first ascent to Chayulla. But it was difficult for a different reason. The lower we got the bigger the mountain bogs became, and we lost quite a few horses in them. The worst occurrence was our guide Edwin's horse who disappeared up to his saddle in a bog. It took a lot of effort to get him out. But, the wranglers were brilliant. On foot they spread apart until they found a firmer terrain and then led a horse across so we could follow in the exact prints of that horse. It took a long time to get down to Patacancha which is where we said goodbye to our horses and wranglers. We then took a minibus to Ollantaytambo back in the Sacred Valley. We ate out in the town and then later went to the town square where they had a festival on the go. That night we stayed in the Tunapa Lodge.
Day 8 - In the morning we explored the fortress at Ollantaytambo which was where one of the final battles with the Spanish took place. Although uncompleted it is very imposing with its steep terraces. We then took the train with very picturesque views to Aguas Calientes, the jump off point for Machu Picchu. A funny place, built in a hurry to accommodate tourists. It is a mass of market traders all aimed at rich tourists. After an evening visit to their hot springs, which was most unpleasant and dirty, we stayed overnight at Gringo Bills Hotel which was very nice. We dined out that night and ended up with rather too many pisco sours and a bit of a head.
Day 9 - Off by coach on a switchback dirt track up to Machu Picchu, the Lost City. What a place, far beyond what I was expecting. Other people's photographs just don't do it justice. The Spanish never found this place, but there are many theories as to why the inhabitants died in their houses here.
After a large lunch we return on the train back to Ollantaytambo, and then by minibus to Cusco getting there in time for dinner and overnight at Amaru Hostel where we had started all that time ago.
Day 10 - 3am start to get to the airport and a flight to Lima. We then took a bus out to the outskirts to a stables that do beach rides on Paso horses. These are very comfortable gaited horses and this was a first time for me. We rode for 1 and half hours along the beach in nice sunshine (unusual for Lima who is normally bathed in fog), had a beer, and then returned back to the yard. A quick change of clothes in the bus and off to Lima airport to catch a flight to Paris. After a two hour wait on to the Heathrow flight and home.
Just as well as the horse infront of me decided he didn't fancy it at all and stopped dead refusing to move. Luckily my leader could just about reach her and assist before an accident happened. After that section they set me free again, saying it's all easy from here. All lies again. But, I actually started to get braver, and some of the others said they thought it was worse in the afternoon and even they were frightened. One part of the trail went around a sharp bend at the edge of the mountain and the horses were on a rock ledge only 2feet deep with nothing under them. What a photograph that would have made, but no-one was brave enough to take hands off reins to take it. We passed through Rosa Pata and onto a Qochayoq village. After climbing to 5000mtrs we then descended to 4500mtrs to our campsite. After a great dinner, we went to bed early. It was freezing. I went to bed with thermals, 3 t-shirts, jumper, cardigan, waistcoat, fleece coat, duckdown coat, sleeping bag and blanket on top. Wool socks with gloves over the top. Wool hat, snood, scarf and gloves and I was still cold. -10 that night, what an experience.
Day 7 - Our final day. Should be an easier ride as progressively descending to Patacancha after the first ascent to Chayulla. But it was difficult for a different reason. The lower we got the bigger the mountain bogs became, and we lost quite a few horses in them. The worst occurrence was our guide Edwin's horse who disappeared up to his saddle in a bog. It took a lot of effort to get him out. But, the wranglers were brilliant. On foot they spread apart until they found a firmer terrain and then led a horse across so we could follow in the exact prints of that horse. It took a long time to get down to Patacancha which is where we said goodbye to our horses and wranglers. We then took a minibus to Ollantaytambo back in the Sacred Valley. We ate out in the town and then later went to the town square where they had a festival on the go. That night we stayed in the Tunapa Lodge.
Day 8 - In the morning we explored the fortress at Ollantaytambo which was where one of the final battles with the Spanish took place. Although uncompleted it is very imposing with its steep terraces. We then took the train with very picturesque views to Aguas Calientes, the jump off point for Machu Picchu. A funny place, built in a hurry to accommodate tourists. It is a mass of market traders all aimed at rich tourists. After an evening visit to their hot springs, which was most unpleasant and dirty, we stayed overnight at Gringo Bills Hotel which was very nice. We dined out that night and ended up with rather too many pisco sours and a bit of a head.
Day 9 - Off by coach on a switchback dirt track up to Machu Picchu, the Lost City. What a place, far beyond what I was expecting. Other people's photographs just don't do it justice. The Spanish never found this place, but there are many theories as to why the inhabitants died in their houses here.
After a large lunch we return on the train back to Ollantaytambo, and then by minibus to Cusco getting there in time for dinner and overnight at Amaru Hostel where we had started all that time ago.
Day 10 - 3am start to get to the airport and a flight to Lima. We then took a bus out to the outskirts to a stables that do beach rides on Paso horses. These are very comfortable gaited horses and this was a first time for me. We rode for 1 and half hours along the beach in nice sunshine (unusual for Lima who is normally bathed in fog), had a beer, and then returned back to the yard. A quick change of clothes in the bus and off to Lima airport to catch a flight to Paris. After a two hour wait on to the Heathrow flight and home.
Unusual sight on Lima beach whilst riding the Paso horses.
Phew, what a whirlwind journey. This is a very brief resume and I am preparing to do a full presentation in the near future for the Rotary Club.
Thank you so much everyone for your sponsorship. The British Horse Society Welfare Charity is a very good cause and does a fantastic job.
All the best,
Jane
Thank you so much everyone for your sponsorship. The British Horse Society Welfare Charity is a very good cause and does a fantastic job.
All the best,
Jane
